The NaturTex project aims to find new uses for agroforestry and fruit-growing waste and by-products from inland Portugal, converting them into natural dyes and compounds for use in the textile sector.
What if agroforestry waste had the potential to produce textiles with antimicrobial, antifungal, antioxidant and even fire-retardant properties? This is already a reality in the making at the Centre for Biological Engineering at the University of Minho, through the NaturTex project, coordinated by researcher Carla Silva, in partnership with the University of Beira Interior (UBI) and the company LandraTech.
The aim is to utilise by-products from species such as oak (Quercus spp.), almond, cherry, olive and blueberry trees to develop eco-friendly, value-added solutions for new textiles. NaturTex also aims to promote textile products from inland Portugal, such as Bordaleira wool from the Serra da Estrela, with companies already showing interest in its results.
Now in its second year of implementation, the project is already yielding very positive results, particularly in the dyeing of fibres such as wool and cotton. “The natural pigments extracted demonstrate good colour intensity and fastness to domestic washing and light exposure, reinforcing NaturTex’s potential to promote more sustainable and functional processes in the textile industry,” highlights Carla Silva.
But how does this transformation take place? The first step involves contacting producers in inland regions of Portugal, who supply agricultural and forestry waste that they are unable to utilise. Using these resources, innovative methods based on green chemistry are applied, capable of extracting bioactive compounds and natural pigments. These compounds are then used to functionalise textile fibres, such as wool from the Serra da Estrela, replacing synthetic dyes, giving them improved characteristics and promoting the sustainable reuse of undervalued materials.
The use of eutectic natural solvents – a pioneering and environmentally friendly technology – is a cornerstone of the research. In addition to possessing bioactive properties that can be harnessed, these non-toxic ‘green’ solvents enable the efficient extraction of bioactive compounds, eliminating chemical waste and reducing environmental impact. By working with Bordaleira wool from the Serra da Estrela, which is often discarded due to its coarser texture, NaturTex is also contributing to the valorisation of an underutilised local resource.
By improving the technical properties of the fibres, it is possible to make them more attractive to the market, and several companies have shown interest in the future incorporation of natural pigments, highlighting the project’s potential for knowledge transfer and industrial application.
With an innovative approach, NaturTex stands as a clear example of how science can transform challenges into promising solutions, benefiting the environment and boosting the bioeconomy in inland Portugal. The research may also have positive impacts on human health by replacing synthetic dyes with less toxic natural pigments and bioactive compounds, reducing the release of harmful chemicals and the risks associated with skin contact.
Furthermore, functionalised fibres may impart antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, thereby enhancing users’ hygiene and well-being. This project paves the way for a better and more sustainable future and reinforces CEB’s commitment to excellence in research and to making a positive impact on society.
+Info: RTP, www.ceb.uminho.pt, Público
